The Friendly Pirate: Surfing in Australia & living his best life.

Ash is a surfer from Byron Bay in Australia who travels the world surfing and shooting photos. Ash’s story is quite interesting because he lost one of his eyes in an accident and persevered by re-learning to surf and keep living his life to the fullest despite the mental challenges and hardships he’s faced along the way.
How long have you been into surfing?
Ive been surfing about 15 years but I was a full dedicated skater before that, I think that’s what helped me pick up surfing so fast!
Why are you called the friendly pirate?
I’ll definitely direct you to a movie link in my Instagram Bio to get the full run down on that one ❤ But the short of it is loosing my eye in an accident and still keeping my stoke levels super high after having to permanently don an eyepatch.
What were some challenges you faced when learning to surf again?
it was all mental, just staying positive, my body adjusted pretty fast once the mental side clicked in.
What is one word of advice you have to someone learning how to surf?
Get a soft board so you don’t take out my other eye haha…. or don’t take it to seriously, go out there and have fun!
What is your favorite Penny board to ride and where is your favorite place to ride?
Definitely the black long board, cruising around Byron surf checking for sure!